Intro

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 occupies a pivotal position in the history of the Submariner line as the first model to introduce a date complication. Produced between 1967 and 1979, the reference 1680 marked a functional evolution of Rolex’s professional dive watch, responding to practical demands from users who valued enhanced everyday usability alongside underwater performance. While retaining the core design principles of earlier Submariner references, the addition of the date window with cyclops magnifier subtly shifted the watch from a purely utilitarian instrument toward a more versatile sports watch suitable for daily wear.

The 1680 was manufactured during a period of significant transition within Rolex, when material science, movement reliability, and production scalability were rapidly advancing. Throughout its production run, the reference underwent a number of incremental changes, particularly in dial execution, that today define its collectibility. Among these, the early so-called “Red Sub” variants have achieved near-mythical status. Despite these variations, the 1680 remains unified by its balanced proportions, professional specifications, and unmistakable Submariner identity. It stands as a reference that bridges vintage tool-watch purity with the expanding expectations of modern users.

Movement

Movement

The Rolex Submariner 1680 is powered by the Rolex Calibre 1575, an automatic movement derived from the highly regarded 1570 family. This calibre was engineered to provide robust performance under demanding conditions, reflecting Rolex’s focus on reliability for professional use. The inclusion of a date mechanism represented a notable technical step, requiring careful integration without compromising durability or water resistance. The Cal. 1575 operates at a frequency appropriate to its era, prioritizing longevity and serviceability over high-beat precision.

The movement is chronometer-certified, underscoring Rolex’s confidence in its accuracy and consistency. In practice, the Cal. 1575 has earned a reputation among watchmakers for mechanical stability and ease of maintenance, qualities that contribute to the long-term survivability of vintage examples. For collectors, originality of the movement is a critical factor, as period-correct components support both historical integrity and value retention. The Cal. 1575 remains central to the technical identity of the Submariner 1680.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Movement type

The movement used in the Submariner 1680 is automatic, utilizing Rolex’s self-winding Perpetual rotor system. Automatic winding was particularly advantageous for dive watches, as it ensured consistent power delivery without the need for frequent manual interaction. This reduced the likelihood of crown manipulation, thereby supporting water resistance over extended use.

Rolex’s automatic systems of this era were engineered for efficiency and durability, allowing the watch to maintain optimal performance through regular wear. The automatic movement architecture aligns with the Submariner’s role as a professional instrument designed to operate reliably in both marine environments and everyday settings.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Movement jewels

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Case

Case material

The case of the Submariner 1680 is manufactured from stainless steel, selected for its resistance to corrosion and structural integrity in marine environments. Stainless steel cases were a defining feature of Rolex professional watches during this period, balancing durability with a relatively understated appearance. The material choice reinforced the tool-watch ethos of the Submariner while remaining suitable for daily wear.

Over time, steel cases often develop distinctive signs of use, including softened edges and surface patina, which are closely examined by collectors. Original case geometry is particularly important, as excessive polishing can diminish historical and collectible value. The stainless steel case remains fundamental to the functional and aesthetic identity of the 1680.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Case diameter

The Submariner 1680 features a case diameter of 40 mm, consistent with the established proportions of the Submariner line. This size provides an effective balance between legibility and wearability, ensuring clarity underwater while remaining comfortable on the wrist. The 40 mm format has proven enduring, continuing to influence Rolex sports watch design decades later.

For vintage collectors, this diameter contributes to the timeless appeal of the reference, as it aligns closely with modern size preferences without appearing oversized. The dimensions support the functional layout of the dial and bezel, reinforcing the watch’s professional intent.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Case thickness

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Crystal

The Submariner 1680 is fitted with an acrylic top-hat crystal, a characteristic feature of vintage Rolex sports watches. Acrylic was favored during this period for its impact resistance and ease of polishing, allowing scratches to be removed without replacement. The raised profile of the crystal contributes to the distinctive silhouette of the reference.

Optically, acrylic crystals produce subtle edge distortion that many collectors associate with vintage charm. Correct crystal type is an important detail for originality, as later service replacements can alter the watch’s appearance. The acrylic crystal plays a key role in preserving the period-correct character of the 1680.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Bezel type

The Submariner 1680 features a rotating bezel designed for measuring elapsed dive time. This functional component is central to the Submariner’s role as a professional diving instrument. During the period of production, bezels were typically bidirectional, reflecting the technical standards of the era.

The aluminum bezel insert often exhibits fading or patina over decades of use, with such changes now appreciated by collectors as indicators of authenticity. The bezel remains both a practical tool and a key visual identifier of the Submariner lineage.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Caseback type

The Submariner 1680 employs a screw-down caseback, integral to Rolex’s Oyster case system. This construction ensures a secure seal against water ingress, protecting the movement during underwater use. Screw-down casebacks were essential for achieving professional dive ratings during this period.

Caseback engravings and interior markings can offer insights into production batches and service history, making them relevant to collectors and researchers. The screw-down design underscores Rolex’s commitment to functional reliability.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Dial

Dial color

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Dial type

The Submariner 1680 is known for its matte dial execution, particularly in earlier production examples. Matte dials were designed to reduce glare and maximize legibility, an essential consideration for underwater use. The surface texture also allowed luminous material to age naturally over time.

Dial variations are among the most studied aspects of the 1680, as small typographical differences can significantly affect collectibility. The matte dial reflects a period when functionality guided design decisions within Rolex’s professional lineup.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Lume material

The luminous material used on the Submariner 1680 is tritium, which was standard for Rolex during this era. Tritium provided continuous low-level illumination without requiring external charging. Over time, tritium degrades and develops patina, often valued by collectors.

The condition and color of the lume are important indicators of originality and preservation. Tritium lume contributes significantly to the vintage character of the reference.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Hands style

The Submariner 1680 uses the Mercedes hand configuration, a Rolex design developed to improve lume stability and legibility. The segmented hour hand reduces the risk of luminous material displacement while providing clear visual distinction between hands.

Over decades, the Mercedes hands have become an enduring symbol of Rolex sports watches. Matching patina between hands and dial is particularly desirable, reinforcing the cohesive appearance of well-preserved examples.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Bracelet

Bracelet type

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Bracelet reference

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Endlinks

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Variants & Collectibility

Notable variants

The most notable variant of the Submariner 1680 is the so-called “Red Sub,” distinguished by the red SUBMARINER text on the dial. These early examples are highly sought after due to their relative rarity and short production span. Multiple Red Sub dial variations exist, each defined by subtle typographical differences.

Later production examples transitioned to all-white dial text, representing a shift toward standardization. These variations form the foundation of the reference’s collectibility hierarchy.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expert contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Collectibility notes

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Source: Watchopedia reference database. This section is based on currently incomplete dataset information and will be updated as new verified sources become available.

Production & Serial Range

Production period

The Submariner 1680 was produced from 1967 to 1979. This period encompasses significant changes in Rolex manufacturing practices, reflected in the evolution of dial layouts and component details. The defined production span helps collectors contextualize variations and assess period correctness.

The reference represents Rolex’s first sustained exploration of a date-equipped Submariner, setting the foundation for future generations.

Source: Watchopedia reference database, compiled from manufacturer documentation, period catalogues, expertl contributions, auction records and historical research. Information is reviewed but may evolve as new primary sources appear.

Serial number range

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Conclusion

The Rolex Submariner 1680 stands as a landmark reference that introduced the date complication to one of the most influential dive watches ever produced. Balancing professional capability with enhanced everyday practicality, it reflects a pivotal moment in the evolution of Rolex sports watches. Its range of subtle variations, particularly among early examples, has made it a focal point for collectors and researchers alike. The enduring appeal of the 1680 lies in its combination of functional design, historical significance, and timeless aesthetics.