This reference 5504 was introduced in 1958, bridging the gap between a dress watch and a sports watch. It served as a more budget-friendly alternative to the pricier Explorer 6610, as the 6610 was chronometer-certified, whereas the 5504 used the new calibre 1530 movement—more compact yet still highly accurate. Because the movement was not chronometer-certified, the dial is marked “Super Precision” instead of “Chronometer.”

The 5504 shared its 36 mm case and dial layout with the Air-King reference 5500, with the key differences being the larger case size (36 mm vs. 34 mm) and the Explorer-style dial.

At hand we have a particularly attractive example of the 5504.

Just look at that milk-chocolate-toned tropical dial!

It features a super-glossy gilt dial with a chapter ring, the iconic 3-6-9 Explorer layout, silver-printed “Super Precision,” a “Swiss Only” marking at 6 o’clock, and a silver-printed underline right beneath the “Explorer” text. The underline—a small horizontal stroke—was used by Rolex as a transitional marker between roughly 1962 and 1964.

This underline indicated an internal shift to the newer, lower-radiation tritium lume, distinguishing these dials from the earlier, highly radioactive radium versions. Produced for only a short period, underline dials are rare and highly sought after by collectors.

This chocolate-gloss beauty is paired with a Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, reference 7206, with 58 end links and a clasp stamped 1/64. The watch has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is ready for many years of wear.

We believe this reference is something of an underdog—or simply under appreciated. A 36 mm Explorer-style watch with a gilt dial, tropical ageing, and an underline? Come on, guys—let’s get this wrapped around your wrist!

Specifications:

Rolex Explorer Reference 5504 Super precision
36mm steel case with smooth bezel
Serial 949xxx dating to 1963
Tropical ,brown gilt chapter ring dial “Swiss only “with underline
Riveted Oyster bracelet ref 7206 with end links 58
Fully serviced by our watchmaker
One-year mechanical warranty
Free worldwide FedEx Priority shipping

Rolex Explorer 5504 Gilt Chapter-Ring Tropical Underline Dial

Rolex Explorer 5504 Gilt Chapter-Ring Tropical Underline Dial

Before/after