The Explorer has long represented what many consider the perfect “one good watch” to own. Its clean design and understated versatility make it equally suited to everyday life and adventurous escapes. The reference 1016, in particular, holds a special place in watch history—produced for an impressive 29 years, from 1960 to 1989. With its modest 36mm case, no-date dial, and sharp black face—whether gilt or matte—it remains the quintessential vintage Rolex sports watch. Quietly iconic, the Explorer is the Rolex for those who appreciate substance over status.

For many watch enthusiasts, including us at Bulang and Sons, a gilt dial Explorer with a chapter ring is the ultimate grail—and when people picture that, they usually think of the Rolex 1016.

While this is not a reference 1016, it is the ref. 5504—often overlooked and perhaps even “a forgotten Explorer reference.” Unlike its “brother” reference 5500, which is 34mm, the 5504 retains the full 36mm case size.

Let’s break down why this watch is such an interesting one:

The 5504 is often mistaken for a 1016, and truth be told, the only real difference is that the 5504 was never chronometer-certified. At the time, this was Rolex’s way of offering a nearly identical model at a lower price point. (Or—depending on how you look at it—charging more for the 1016! 😉)

When the 5504 Explorer was first produced in 1958, the chronometer-certified Explorer was actually the Rolex 6610, which used the older caliber 1030 movement that Rolex was beginning to phase out of its sports models.

The 5504 was one of the first to feature the newer caliber 1530, which was also used in early Submariners of the time, including the legendary 5508 and 5510 “Big Crown” models—better known as the “James Bond” watches.

This newer caliber was compact and highly precise, but it was built as more of a workhorse movement. That’s why it appeared in several non-chronometer models, including early Submariners, the later 5513, and the Air-King.

This fine example features a beautiful gilt dial with a chapter ring, bold lume-filled numerals, and silver printing for "Explorer" and "Super Precision." The hands were replaced during a later service and are tritium—no longer glowing under UV light. The riveted Oyster bracelet (ref. 7206) has end links marked 80 and a clasp stamped 2/69. The watch has been fully checked and regulated by our watchmaker and is ready to “explore some more” in the years ahead!

It wears beautifully on the wrist—classic and under-the-radar, never loud. Get in touch if this low-key legend speaks to you.

Specifications:

Rolex Explorer Reference 5504 Super precision
36mm case with smooth bezel
Serial 571xxx dating to 1960
Black gilt chapter ring dial “Swiss only “with two silver lines
Hand set later then the watch
Riveted Oyster bracelet ref 7206 with end links 80
Fully checked by our watchmaker
One-year mechanical warranty
Free worldwide FedEx Priority shipping

Rolex Explorer 5504 “Super precision” Gilt Chapter-ring Dial

Rolex Explorer 5504 “Super precision” Gilt Chapter-ring Dial

Before/after