The Rolex Submariner was the first wristwatch to achieve a water-resistance rating of 100 meters (330 feet). Conceived by Rolex director and passionate diver René-Paul Jeanneret, it was developed as a specialised tool for both professional and recreational diving, while remaining elegant and practical enough for everyday wear. Introduced at Baselworld in 1954, the Submariner would go on to become one of the most influential sports watches ever produced.

In 1969, Rolex introduced the Submariner Date with the launch of reference 1680. For the first time, the Submariner featured a date display at 3 o’clock together with Rolex’s now-iconic Cyclops magnification lens, designed to improve legibility underwater and in daily use alike.

Early examples of the 1680 are especially prized for one small but highly important detail: the word “Submariner” printed in red. This subtle variation would later earn the nickname “Red Sub” and has since become one of the most celebrated and collectible configurations in the world of vintage Rolex collecting.

Presented here is exactly that — an early Submariner reference 1680 “Red Sub” preserved in excellent overall condition. The watch retains a strong and beautifully proportioned case and is fitted with an equally attractive fat-font bezel insert that has faded over time to a rich dark blue hue, adding tremendous character to the watch.

The dial is a highly collectible “Meters First” Mark II variant, referring to the depth rating being displayed in metric before imperial measurements (“200m = 660ft”). These early dials are particularly sought after, representing a brief transitional period before Rolex switched to “Feet First” printing to better suit the rapidly growing American market, which had become the brand’s largest consumer base at the time.

This fine Submariner is fitted with a Rolex folded Oyster bracelet, reference 9315, complete with end links stamped 280 and a clasp dated 1/71 — a wonderfully period-correct combination that perfectly complements the watch’s overall character.

The watch and its movement have been fully serviced and are running like an absolute dream.

An iconic reference that perfectly captures the spirit of vintage Rolex sports watches!

Specifications:

Rolex Reference 1680 Submariner Date
Serial 236xxxx dating to 1969
Mk2 Red Submariner Meters first dial, “Red over white “
Black fat font bezel insert, slightly faded to a blue hue
Oyster bracelet 9315 with 280 end links
Fully serviced by our watchmaker
1 year mechanical warranty
Free worldwide Fedex Priority shipping

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Meters First MK2 Dial

Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Meters First MK2 Dial

Before/after